Zupagrafika Concrete Hong Kong: Build a Paper City

By WALKENS House of Film | Published: 2026-11-05

Category: Guías prácticas

Learn how to build the modernist Hong Kong paper models in Zupagrafika's Concrete Hong Kong kit, from punching out parts to displaying your finished skyline.

Quick answer

Work on a clean, well-lit table, punch out parts only as you need them, and score every fold before gluing. Build from the base upward and let each glued joint set fully before adding the next floor or facade piece.

Why this kit needs a slower, methodical approach

Concrete Hong Kong is a paper model architecture kit focused on the public housing towers built between the 1950s and 1980s. Those designs are dense and repetitive, so small alignment errors multiply quickly across many windows and balconies. Rushing the first few folds often means the upper floors sit crooked.

The kit rewards patience over speed. Set aside a full evening for one building rather than trying to finish the whole set in one sitting. A cutting mat, a metal ruler, and a fine-tip glue applicator make more difference than any special skill.

What to check before you start

Open the book and confirm you have all the die-cut sheets listed. Zupagrafika prints parts on card stock, so creases from shipping can affect folds. Lay the sheets flat under a heavy book for an hour if they have curled.

You will need a craft knife, a bone folder or blunt scoring tool, a small cutting mat, and white PVA glue with a fine nozzle. Avoid wet glue sticks because they warp thin card and do not hold under tension.

Step-by-step: building your Concrete Hong Kong paper city

Prepare and score the sheet: Place the die-cut sheet on a cutting mat. Run a bone folder or the back of a craft knife along every fold line before punching out any part. Do not press hard enough to tear the printed surface. Score first, punch second; scoring after removal often crushes the edges.
Punch out only the parts for one building: Separate the base, walls, and roof pieces for a single tower from the sheet. Keep unused parts flat and covered. Work from the largest pieces to the smallest. Losing a tiny balcony piece is common when you punch out the whole sheet at once.
Fold and crease every edge: Fold along each scored line using a metal ruler as a straightedge. Press the crease firmly with the bone folder. For curved elements, wrap the card around a pencil or dowel to form a smooth bend. Sharp creases make corners meet cleanly; soft folds leave gaps that glue cannot fill.
Glue the main structure from the base up: Apply a thin line of PVA to the tab, press the joint for 20–30 seconds, and let it set before moving to the next wall. Build the base and lower floors first, then add upper sections once the lower joints are firm. Gluing all walls at once usually pulls the tower out of square.
Add facade details last: Attach balconies, window strips, and roof details only after the main box is fully dry. Use tweezers for small parts and apply glue with a toothpick to avoid smearing printed surfaces. Handle small parts over a tray so dropped pieces do not disappear.
Let the model cure before display: Leave the finished building undisturbed for at least an hour, ideally overnight, before moving it. Place it on a flat shelf away from direct sun and humidity. Moving a model too soon is the most common cause of collapsed corners.

About the kit

CONCRETE HONG KONG : Build Your Own Modernist Metropolis by Zupagrafika: Covers Hong Kong public housing developed between the 1950s and 1980s, with modernist towers designed for nearly three million residents. The models reflect real dense housing blocks, so expect many repeated window and balcony units that benefit from a consistent folding and gluing rhythm.
CONCRETE HONG KONG : Build Your Own Modernist Metropolis by Zupagrafika